For engine accessories such as the power steering pump, alternator, or AC (I’m not using AC) you can mostly treat a B20V like a regular B20. The power steering pump is the only accessory that’ll require special attention since it mounts to both the head and the block instead of just the block like the alternator or AC compressor. Read more...

When you slap a VTEC head on a non-VTEC block you need to have a plan for how to allow crankcase pressure to escape while the engine is running. On a B20B (or LS) the PCV valve is located on the head but for the GSR or B16 engine the PCV valve is on the block and that’s a problem. Read more...

Installing an intake manifold and fuel rail / injectors on a b20v is the same as any other VTEC head. The main things to be mindful of are matching the intake manifold to the head (ex: GSR head requires a GSR intake) and that longer intake manifold studs may be necessary when using an aftermarket manifold, or thicker gasket. Read more...

The B20V is on the homestretch at this point. The internals are all set and now its time to start spending more time on everything outside of the block. Read more...

The TD-68U and TD-84U distributors found in OBD1 and OBD2 94-01 Integra GSRs are different in size than other B-Series distributors and require a special distributor cap. I’m currently building a B20V with a GSR head and had a lot of trouble sourcing the correct distributor cap because of this. There’s several aftermarket brands out there that claim to fit but the only cap that I’ve found to actually work is the OEM Honda 30102-P72-006 cap. Read more...

The block’s finally ready for the head to be torqued down and finished up now that all the clearances (v2v, p2v) checked out. Read more...

Building a custom engine is basically 80% measuring and double checking things. Every time you think your done measuring there’s another thing you need to check. I’ve got my GSR head and B20 block ready to go but they can’t be bolted together until I double check my valve to valve clearance, and piston to valve clearance. Read more...

Let’s shift focus to the head now that the block’s ready to go. Like mentioned earlier, I’m using a GSR head and it’s fully stock but has had some work done to it by the previous owner including milling it flat. Read more...

I run a CoreBoxx on one of my Prusa Core Ones and overall I’ve been happy with it but for awhile I kept running into issues with the MMU3 jamming when attempting to unload the filament at the end of a print. Read more...

Having the ability to run a higher extrusion multiplier on the first layer can be handy for getting a better finish. I print a lot of PETG on the textured plate and a higher multiplier helps ensure the first layer flows out nice and doesn’t leave any tiny holes or outlines between lines. Read more...