The B20V is on the homestretch at this point. The internals are all set and now its time to start spending more time on everything outside of the block.

Let’s Piecemeal a Timing Cover

I prefer the OEM look so it was important that my B20V build had a complete timing cover setup like a regular Honda motor does. While the B18B1 (LS) and B20V share the same timing cover parts, the GSR doesn’t so this wasn’t as simple as transferring the timing cover from my old B20 head to the GSR head.

The good news is that the GSR and B20 share the same lower cover so you only need to buy the upper inner and outer timing cover halves.

Part numbers:

• Upper outer half: 11820-P72-000
• Upper inner half: 11840-P72-010
• Timing cover gasket: 11832-P72-000

If you need a new lower cover as well the part number is 11810-P72-A00.

The upper inner half will need to be modified slightly to clear the B20 block in one spot.

But it shouldn’t be noticeable.

After that everything will mount right up.

Note: If you’re running an ACL oil pump you may need to notch the bottom cover. (I had to)

Setting Timing

Timing up a B20V is no different than timing up any other Honda engine.

You don’t want to forget your cam gear keys, and make sure the gears aren’t rubbing the timing cover once installed.

The timing belt and water pump should match the head. In my case I’m running a GSR water pump with a GSR timing belt.

All timed up.

I rotated the engine few times to double check timing looked good and after that the timing cover was re-installed followed by the crank pulley.

The engine mount is an Innovative 2 post B-series mount (B50050). The correct mount to use will depend on whatever chassis your putting the B20V into but you can’t use the stock B20 mount because it’s too tall.

To finish up the water pump I mounted up the tube and thermostat housing (both are b20).

And just for fun a new dipstick (Honda part number: 15650-P30-000)

Setting Valve Lash

Valve lash will be dictated by the manufacturer of your cams. If you’re running OEM GSR camshafts then you should follow the OEM specs, but if you’re running aftermarket refer to the cam card that came with your cams.

In my case Skunk2 recommends .007" intake and .008" exhaust.

There’s already plenty of good tutorials on how to set valve lash out there so I won’t go into detail but if you’ve got some spare tool budget I’d recommend getting a tool like the Schley 88950 to make it easier.

The rocker arms sit significantly deeper in a GSR head than on the B20 / LS so it can be hard to reach the lash nuts with regular wrenches.

Torque spec is 14 ft/lbs for the lash nuts. Make sure to double check them.

Bolt All The Things (Back On)

With valve lash all set the valve cover can be installed and pretty much everything else after that.

I got a little carried away with testing fitting parts