How to Build a B20 VTEC Part 8: Torquing Down the Head and Installing the Cams

The block’s finally ready for the head to be torqued down and finished up now that all the clearances (v2v, p2v) checked out.

Torquing Down the Head

Installing a VTEC head is pretty much the same process as what you’d follow for a non-VTEC head. The main differences are that the head cannot be installed with the cams in place because they cover the head studs, and that the block alignment dowels will go in different holes.

The Golden Eagle VTEC conversion kit I’m using comes with stepped dowels that fit in the front head stud holes of the non-VTEC block. These are needed because the VTEC heads have the dowels holes in the front but non-VTEC heads have them in the back.

The dowels themselves are super easy to install and worst case may just need a quick tap with a dead blow to get them into position.

For my build, I opted to go with ARP head studs and will be following the ARP instructions. (Head studs follow the same sequence but have a higher torque spec)

Prior to dropping the head on the block I applied ARP fastener lube to the threads of each stud and gave the head gasket one final look over to make sure it was clean, and correctly orientated.

A bit of work with the torque wrench later and the head was officially secured to the block.

I’ve already done this step several times now back when I was checking piston to valve clearance but it always feels different doing it for the final time.

When installing the head studs I torqued them in three steps (30 ft/lbs, 60 ft/lbs, and finally 80 ft/lbs) and followed the OEM order.

Installing the Cams and Rockers

Next up is to reinstall the rocker arms and cams. This bit is pretty easy and the main thing to be cautious about is ensuring each rocker arm goes back into the correct location.

It doesn’t show in the pictures but the rocker arms had a nice coating of assembly lube on them.

The VTEC lobe may sit a little higher than the others if you upgraded your LMAs.

Here’s the correct assembly order. It’s the same on the intake or exhaust side.

Double Check For Stuck VTEC Pins

While getting the rocker arms ready for reassembly I found 3 of them had stuck VTEC pins.

The pins sit within blind holes and during operation are pushed outwards via oil pressure (when VTEC kicks in yo) but mine wouldn’t budge even when trying to pull them out with a strong magnet.

The first thing I tried was soaking them in solvent and after about 20 minutes I was able to free one of the pins but the other 2 still wouldn’t budge.

After about 2 hours of soaking and no progress I decided to get creative and 3d printed some TPU caps that would cover the rocker shaft openings.

The plugs were then held securely by a clamp and using my air compressor I blasted 80psi into the rocker through the remaining opening until the pin shot out with a satisfying thump. (I knew the pin would shoot out pretty fast so I had been aiming it into something soft and had safety glasses on as a precaution)

Looks like a tiny bit of rust had been holding the really stuck ones in. Each of the stuck pins was given a good cleaning and a healthy dose of assembly lube in their respective hole before popping them back into place.

Once every rocker was back in place I torqued the rocker shaft plugs on the sides of the head to 47 ft/lbs along with new 20mm crush washers (Honda part number 94109-20000)

Lastly, the cams were reinstalled following the instructions on page 6-65 of the 94-01 Integra FSM.

Done.

Don’t forget to reinstall the oil orifices (the ones behind the cam gears) before installing your cam caps. The tall one goes on the exhaust side.

Almost There

The engine still needs to be timed and have valve lash set but I couldn’t resist popping the valve cover on to get a sneak peak of what the motor will look like.

The head also needs to be painted to match the block but it already looks awesome.